<%@LANGUAGE="JAVASCRIPT" CODEPAGE="1252"%> Rag-Z Gazoo How To
  T-SHIRTS
  FLEECE
  SHORTS
  KIDS
  STICKERS-DECALS
  TEMPORARY TATTOOS
 
  HOME
  ABOUT US
  FEEDBACK
  FAQ & CONTACT INFO
  HOW TO
  LINKS
 
How To Apply Sticker/Decals
   
How to Use Our Custom Paint Masks
   
right_arrow How To Remove Vinyl Stickers
   
 

INTRODUCTION ON HOW TO APPLY VINYL STICKERS:
If you're not familiar with decals or the application of them, we recommended that you read instructions thoroughly. It's not a difficult process, but it will help you in achieving good results. The decal itself comes in 3 parts, the backing (bottom layer), the decal itself, then the transfer tape (top layer). The first group of photos are for small stickers but gives you the basic steps on installing vinyl. The second section is for larger decals. We recommend a surface temperature between 55-80 degrees.

 

 

What ever surface you're working on, it has to be clean and free from wax or grease. Place sticker in desired location with masking tape along top edge, this is called the hinge method. You could also run tape straight across top edge instead of the way it's shown here.

Sticker is lifted up exposing backing paper. Peel backing toward opposite corner insuring sticker releases from backing. Make sure masking tape keeps sticker in desired position.

Slowly lower sticker trying to get a smooth transition from top to bottom. Use squeegee (something like a credit card) to rub over surface trying to work air bubbles out from under vinyl.
Starting from upper right corner, slowly peel top layer back towards opposite corner insuring sticker doesn't lift. Don't pull top layer towards you! If you do get some lifting, press back down, rub area then try again. And that's all there is to it.
 
LARGE VINYL STICKERS
 
It's very important to have a clean surface. A wax and grease remover should be used to insure proper adhesion. Make sure to clean around edges where decal will overlap, wheel wells, door jambs, etc.
Position decal in desired location. Once you are sure exactly where you want it, tape the upper edge in place to insure decal doesn't shift and stays secure..
With openings or edges, run your finger along area to give you a crease, this will give you a good idea where you're going to mark decal for cutting. Use a marker to give you good visible lines to cut along.
Make sure your decal has not shifted in any way and is totally secure. It's better to use more tape then not enough. Cut along the lines you made.
Remove backing, avoid touching decal. It's OK to touch transfer tape (top layer). Make sure decal releases from backing. Be careful that your surface is still clean and nothing has accidentally adhered to it. If it's large enough, it will show up as a bump.
It's highly recommend to use an application fluid on bigger decals. This allows you to rub out any wrinkles or air bubbles. The fluid will dissipate faster then water and is specifically made for this purpose. Here it's being generously sprayed where ever decal is going to be applied.
With squeegee, rub out wrinkles or air bubbles starting from the center and working your way out using overlapping strokes. Take a close look as your doing this to make sure decal is as flat and smooth as possible.
Allow ample time for fluid to dry. Starting in upper right corner, slowly peel toward the ground, as shown. Don't pull toward you. Make sure decal stays in place, if not, press back down, rub over area again, try peeling transfer tape off again until it's completely removed.
At this point, you may want to use a hair dryer to work the overlaps of the decal to conform around edges. This is important to the over all appearance and longevity. If there are air bubbles you missed, use a pin to poke a hole and rub air out. Tiny bubbles will eventually disappear.
Here is my assistant going back to make sure all edges are flat and secure. Caution must be used in first couple of weeks, as time goes by, vinyl will become more durable. When wiping vinyl, wipe away from pointed areas instead of into them and your vinyl will last for a long time.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

< Back to Top >

HOW TO USE OUR PAINTMASKS
Here is an overview on the steps for using paint masks. For right now, this should give you the basic idea of what it takes. When you order a paint mask, you will receive complete step by step instructions on how to get the best job possible. As a bonus, you will receive ideas on how to enhance your design with some easy to do techniques that help you get that custom look. A paint mask is made up of 3 parts; 1.backing, 2.the masking material itself, 3.transfer tape, this is the top layer. 
 
1. Make sure surface to be painted is clean and free from wax and grease, if necessary, use a wax and grease remover. Your hands should be clean and free from any nose picking during this procedure. You'll know if you did a lousy job at this, if your paint starts to flake off later on, and I'm sure you don't want that to happen. We came across this bum by our studio and he agreed to do this demonstration for us to prove how easy it is.

2. Determine placement of design. Secure into position by taping along upper edge of mask, allowing you to lift the mask up and carefully remove backingusing paintmask 1, (this is called the hinge method).

 

 

3.After backing has been removed, roll mask down into place trying to avoid getting any wrinkles along the edges of the design. Any place else on the mask doesn't really matter. If you are using paint mask on a rounded surface, such as a helmet or using paintmask 2motorcycle tank, you probably will get some wrinkling along the design edge of the mask. An easy way to fix this is when the transfer tape is removed (which is the next step), you take 1/4 inch masking tape and position it so that it smoothes out the curve or straightens out a line.
 


4. Next, rub over the design edges through the transfer tape, then remove the transfer tape by starting at the upper right hand corner and slowly pulling it towards using paintmask 3the opposite lower left hand corner. Don't pull it up towards you. You would be pulling up on the masking material and in turn, lifting the edge up.

 


4. Double check to make sure the edges of the mask are flat along the surface. This saves you time in going back and cleaning up any blow outs you might get. Now you should be ready to paint. If you are going to spray, mask off any areas that you want protected. If you are going to brush the paint in, you shouldn't need to mask off unless your a real slob and just can't help yourself. You still have to be careful not to get paint where you don't want it to be. Speaking of paint, the best paint to use for surface applications is One-Shot enamel. You can use any kind of paint you choose depending on application, but if you have been doing any research into custom work, you have probably come across this brand of paint already. If you would like to buy some for your project, there should be some place close to you that sells it, if not, check out this web site and take a look. pinstriperdepot.com , you can either purchase some or just get information. If you plan on clearing over your work, there are some other things to consider. Your paints should be compatible to avoid any kind of reaction. In custom work, even when your very careful, things can and do go wrong. Welcome to the world of custom paint!

5. Painting the exposed area is all up to you. Here, we had this guy use a small sponge to apply the paint. It leaves an interesting look without a lot of work, no masking off using paintmask 4exposed areas. After the red was applied, he used another sponge to add yellow to the tips. The mask or stencil, which ever you prefer to call it, can also be modified or changed to suit your needs. Example, you could use one of our designs to start some line work along the side of a vehicle. It's really not hard to do and we'll give you examples and ideas to get great results. You'll notice in the next picture, that was done by using 1/4 inch tape to create that flare at the beginning of the flame.

6. When your done painting, you can remove the mask when paint is dry, or you can remove it when it's still wet, but realizing if the paint is wet, avoid touching using paintmask 5your work with the mask or your fingers. If paint is dry, you can use your fingernail to remove mask. If it's wet, use an exacto knife and carefully peel up an edge to remove.


7. If you need to, you can carefully go in and clean up any mistakes or blow outs along the design edge by wrapping a clean rag around a butter knife, or something similar, soaked with a little paint thinner.

                    using paintmask 6
These are just general guide lines and if you're familiar with custom paint, it makes sense to you. If you have no idea about custom paint, and you read this, it might seem a little overwhelming. But it really isn't that hard with our paint masks and the information that is provided along with it. If you have any questions or need help, you can always e-mail, or call us and we'll get back to you as quickly as possible.

 
 
< Back to Top >
 
HOW TO REMOVE VINYL
There are a few ways to remove vinyl, but the cheapest way to do it is to use a hair dryer, or heat gun and just warm the vinyl up. Be aware that a heat gun or even a hair dryer can get the surface pretty hot so be careful, don't over heat the surface, just get it warm enough to soften the vinyl. Another way to soften the vinyl is to put it in direct sunlight, obviously winter time or if you live in the Arctic is going to make that a little difficult. Ultimately, the hair dryer is your best bet. Once it's warmed up, use your fingernail to get it started and pull away. Depending on how old it is, will determine if it will come off in one piece, or break off in sections.. With this type of removal, you will probably have some glue residue. That will have to be removed with some elbow grease and a solvent. Depending on the surface your working on, will depend on how strong your solvent can be. For example, if you are positive that your surface is a factory urethane finish, then lacquer thinner can be used. If you are not sure, then it's best to use something milder, like a wax and grease remover. Test an inconspicuous spot of the surface to make sure you won't damage finish. As you rub the adhesive, you'll be slowly softening it up. After rubbing it down for a bit with some solvent, rub over it with a dry rag and you should notice that the adhesive will start to ball up. It's a bit of work this way, but it can be done. Faster way is to look into a vinyl eraser. This is a tool that you put into a drill that has a soft rubber wheel at the end. You can remove the vinyl without harming the paint and there are plenty of places to dig one up. If you don't mind the extra cost, it's worth it. Hope this helps, if not, e-mail us with your question and we'll do our best to answer it.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

  |    T-SHIRTS |   FLEECE |    SHORTS |    KIDS |    STICKERS-DECALS |    TATTOOS    |  

Copyright 2004   ragzgazoo.com        All Rights Reserved         Phone: 858-566-9878 or  E-mail: info@ragzgazoo.com         Website designed by: Apply Info Tech